This fixes the problem I'd previously noticed, that if you don't
configure the "Command key acts as Meta" setting, then keystrokes like
Command-Q which _ought_ to function as accelerators for the
application menu bar don't.
Turns out that this was for the totally obvious reason: the keyboard
event was still being processed by gtkwin.c's key_event() and
translated via the GTK IM into ordinary keyboard input. If instead I
return FALSE from key_event on detecting that a key event has a
non-Meta-configured Command modifier, then it will go to the next-
level key-event handler inside GTK itself which implements the menu
accelerator behaviour. Another problem ticked off the OS X checklist.